The gooseneck of the Arstid is similar to the Shades of Light sconce, and I thought the lampshade that came with it could possibly be reworked.
Start by removing the fabric from the shade. Work carefully so you don’t dent the plastic shade base.
Some of tape that holds the fabric on at the top and bottom is stitched at the seam – after clipping the stitches it’s easy to remove the fabric tape and material. The plastic shade base is attached to the inner metal frame with stitches also, so be careful not to clip those stitches.
After removing the fabric from the shade base, a bit of adhesive residue remains at the top, and a lot at the bottom. Goo Be Gone on a paper towel will take off the bit at the top, but is impossible to remove entirely from the bottom of the shade. The photo on the left below shows how apparent the adhesive is after being spray painted, so I went to plan B – cover up the adhesive at the bottom of the shade with painter’s tape.
Place a long piece of painter’s tape on your work surface and slice in half with a utility blade so the strip of tape is only about 1/2″ wide, then place it over the adhesive and wrap it over the edge of the shade. Use your thumb nail to smooth out any wrinkles. This gives the edge of the shade a more finished look when painted.
Next, spray paint. (I lucked out with glorious unseasonably warm January day!) Cover the lightbulb socket with painter’s tape and then spray all the components with several light coats, making sure to spray your shade’s inside as well as out. Hold your shade over a lightbulb to see if you have given it good all over coverage, otherwise when you turn on the light you will see imperfections.
“Antique” the gold finish (optional). After everything was dry, I gave all the pieces an antique brass finish like I did on the ping pong ball curtain rods. A tiny bit of black acrylic paint is all you need to tone down the bright gold of the spray paint (right) and give it a little more dimension (left).
A new trick I learned this time around for creating an antique brass finish: wet a paper towel and then ring it out so it is just a bit damp, then dab the paint on it. The dampness gives you more time to rub the paint on and then off the piece. This is especially useful for applying acrylic paint onto a painted metal surface (like the wall lamp base). On metal too much water makes the paint sit on the surface of metal in little droplets, so jump a slightly damp paper towel is all you need to make the paint easier to work with but not so thin that it won’t stick to the surface.
Wipe the paint onto the piece, and then wipe off to leave a sheer residue of the black over the gold spray paint.
Note: the paint really clung to the tape at the bottom of the shade, and was near impossible to remove. I ended up respraying one shade, letting it dry, and then went VERY LIGHTLY on the tape.
The 3 little stitches that hold the plastic lampshade base to the metal frame at the top are still visible after painting the shades. I thought this, along with the visible tape at the bottom of the shade, would bother me, but once the lights are mounted to the wall those imperfections are barely noticeable.
I also want to mention that I did not apply the black acrylic paint glaze to the inside of the shades, so there would be a little contrast with the bright gold, especially when the lights are on. I LOVE this subtle detail. (This photo makes the gold look brighter than it is, but I wanted to show you how the outside of the shade is a muted gold, where the inside is bright and shiny.)
Install the cord cover. I used an inexpensive plastic cord cover with an adhesive back that I spraypainted along with the light components. For an upgrade you could use a real brass cord cover.
What do you think?
If you like this Ikea hack, don’t miss how I used these same wall lights along with metal planters to make these lights for my daughter’s room!